Chef’s recipe: Squab and soba noodle soup

As we roll into autumn, many chefs hunger for an alternative to traditional farm-raised meat, turning to a wide range of game meats offering exciting tastes and textures.

Wild animals are constantly on the move and live directly off the land: It’s this all-natural diet that lends game its characteristic flavour.

I owe my introduction to the world of game to my uncle Clovis. Living in the English countryside, we had the privilege of eating our local hunters’ catch. On his way home from work, Clovis would meet these hunters and buy a pheasant or hare for our family to enjoy. It was then that my lifelong enjoyment of game began. When I moved to Mauritius, my uncles there would stalk the mango groves, hunting the fruit bat, a local delicacy that was served in a stew. Thanks to my relatives, I developed a fondness for game meats of all kinds.

During my time as a cook in England, I vividly remember red grouse season.

As a sous chef under Anton Mosimann, I had the good fortune to taste many great kinds of game meats: August for me meant the opening of the Scottish red grouse season, an occasion marked by great feasts. This type of grouse is impossible to raise on a farm and is highly regarded for its flavour. I was also lucky enough to spend two weeks accompanying and cooking for the Royal Family on an autumn hunt led by Prince Charles. The Royal Hunt’s rewards were amazing, instilling a sense of respect in me for England’s love of the hunt. Cooking game hunted by those who knew and respected it so thoroughly only increased my respect and sensibility for game.

In Canada, I have worked with many of this country’s varied game meats, including caribou, bison, venison and squab. An avid hunter and passionate fisherman, Steve Latner, has brought me beautiful game over the years. This warming fall soup with soba noodles is an ideal use for squab.

David Lee’s Squab and Soba Noodle Soup

Ingredients

¼ cup taro root, diced into 1-inch cubes and simmered for 8 to 10 minutes

¼ litre chicken stock

1 tablespoon light soya

3 ounces soba noodles, cooked as per directions

1 whole squab (about 14 ounces)

Chinese five-spice powder

4 thin strips ginger

1 chilli pepper, thinly sliced

4 Thai basil leaves, torn

1 small sprig coriander

1 wedge of lime

Method

Heat olive oil in a medium-sized, season the squab with a pinch of kosher salt and Chinese five-spice mix and sear on all sides for a maximum of one minute per side. Put the squab in the oven at 325 F for 8 minutes, remove and let rest for 5 minutes.

Place cooked soba noodles, taro-root cubes, sliced chilli, basil leaves and coriander in a bowl. Bring chicken stock to a boil, add soya and pour liquid on top of noodles. Remove the squab breast from the bone, slice diagonally into ½-inch pieces and add to soup. Sprinkle the spice mix on top of the dish and squeeze the lime wedge over top. Serves 2 as appetizer.

David Lee is co-owner of Nota Bene in Toronto.

Wine pairings

Soup, mainly (or entirely) liquid, tends not to make a person thirsty for a beverage. And this one’s got a lot of exuberant seasoning going on, adding more of a challenge as far as wine is concerned. The best strategy here is to look beyond the bird flesh and match the overall aromatic intensity of the dish with a highly aromatic wine – preferably one with bold fruitiness, too, and even some sugar, the better to extinguish the heat. Gewurztraminer would be a good choice, especially from Alsace, as would riesling, including off-dry riesling from Germany or Canada. A small glass of slightly chilled, medium-sweet Amontillado Sherry could work, too.

Beppi Crosariol

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