Like other wine sectors in that part of the world, Slovenia’s industry was stifled by communist rule (and, in Yugoslavia’s case, eventually Tito’s totalitarian rule) as well as a devastating postwar economy. Co-operatives, driven by quantity over quality, dominated for decades. Yet, even before independence, the landscape began to change in Slovenia, with new investments in modern technology and the emergence of quality-oriented producers. Today, it boasts more than 40,000 growers, remarkable for a country its size.
Like in northeast Italy next door, its whites tend, I think, to be more impressive than its reds, a product of its generally Continental climate, which features cold winters and favours early-ripening varieties.
Among the stars of Slovenia’s modern scene is Dveri Pax, a state-of-the art winery that three years ago completed renovations to its headquarters in the old Jarenina Castle. One of its offerings was released this week in Ontario for the first time and it’s a fine exemplar of the new Slovenia. The wine is a traminec, the local name for gewürztraminer. While gewürztraminers from Alsace in France, the grape’s most famous growing zone, tend to be opulent with lychee-like flavour, the Dveri Pax is refreshingly leaner, with a strong accent on the grape’s floral overtones. Think of Alsatian gewürztraminer that’s spent time on a treadmill and spritzed itself with magnolia-scented cologne.
Dveri Pax Traminec 2007
SCORE: 88
Price: $15.95
Light medium-bodied and dry with a burst of floral aroma, it shows subtle spice and lychee notes in the background. It would make a fine aperitif or partner for subtly spicy dishes.
La Vis Simboli Muller Thurgau 2009
SCORE: 89
Price: $12.95
From the northern Italian region of Trentino, not far from Slovenia, this dry, light white shows an oily texture and impressively concentrated flavour of sweet lemon and peach as well as a refreshingly crisp finish. Grilled lean fish such as sea bass would make a fine pairing.
Burgans Albarino 2009
SCORE: 90
Price: $16.95
Bodegas Martin Codax, a good winery in Spain’s northwest Rias Baixas district, has scored another hit with this tangy, refreshingly bitter white. The racy style isn’t for everyone, but I’m a fan. There’s good fruit concentration here and an almost spritzy tingle on the long finish. Perfect for shellfish.
Trapiche Broquel Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
SCORE: 87
Price: $15.95
Argentine producer Trapiche is a South American value leader, and this full-bodied red from the premium Broquel series is a bargain. Juicy, with good concentration, it offers up flavours of cassis, cedar, plum and toasty oak. Think steak.
Penley Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
SCORE: 91
Price: $59.95
It’s expensive but packed with layers of flavour to warrant the superpremium price. From Australia’s Coonawara region, which excels with the red cabernet grape, it’s a 15-per-cent-alcohol blockbuster, velvety and rich with flavours of dark fruits, mint, minerals and herbs. Great for rare beef.
Evans & Tate The Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
SCORE: 91
Price: $25.95
From the relatively cool western Australia region of Margaret River, this full-bodied red is chocolate cake in a glass, but completely dry and accented by notes of cedar and mint. Also good for steak.
Xanadu Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
SCORE: 89
Price: $19.95.
Also from Margaret River, this red shows a more classically leaner, cool-climate profile than the Evans & Tate above, with a fresh blackcurrant core and nice tannic backbone. It would pair well with a variety of red meats, especially roast beef and lamb chops.
Poggio Bonelli Chianti Classico Riserva 2006
SCORE: 90
Price: $28.95.
Medium full-bodied and smooth, with notes of cherry liqueur, violet, herbs and meat juices. Cellar this Tuscan red for at least three years and up to 10 if you can.
White Owl Whisky
SCORE: 91
Price: Price: $39.95 in Ont., $39.99 in B.C.
From Highwood Distillers in High River, Alta., this is one very unusual whisky. It’s perfectly clear, like vodka or gin. All whiskies get their typically amber hue from wood aging. The difference here is in the carbon filtration process, which intentionally strips the wheat-based spirit of its colour. Designed to tap consumer thirst for clear booze, it’s relatively light and deliciously mellow, showing notes of butterscotch and anise, with less of the spice associated with many whiskies. Think of it as whisky-flavoured vodka, only more affordable than many superpremium flavoured vodkas.
Nichol Syrah 2008
SCORE: 90
Price: $29.90 in B.C. through www.nicholvineyard.com
A leading small producer in the Naramata district of British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley, Nichol Vineyard was recently singled out by top British wine writer Jancis Robinson. She ranked the 2005 vintage of this red at the top of her 100-strong B.C. list following a visit to the region in 2009. The 2008 is silky and polished, nodding at the classic syrahs of France’s northern Rhone valley with its meaty essence of smoked pork, blackberry, peppercorn and juicy acidity. Try it with braised red meats .
Nichol Gewurztraminer 2008
SCORE: 89
Price: $16.90 in B.C. through www.nicholvineyard.com
Medium-bodied and very dry for a gewürztraminer, it leads with peppery spice, subtle lychee and pear and a lingering finish of faded roses. It could almost be a great traminec from Slovenia.
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