Dinner Tonight: Chorizo Breakfast Sandwich with Sage Pesto

Whenever I write about breakfast food for Dinner Tonight, ranks of Serious Eaters come out to proclaim their love.

Whether it's a perfect fried egg sandwich or the art of home fries with a poached egg, lovers of breakfast-for-dinner (brinner? B4D?) identify themselves proudly. Kicking around the blog Design Sponge, I landed on this post from a series called "In the kitchen with" where various designers and other creative people share their favorite recipes. The absolutely gorgeous food styling helped, but I was pretty convinced by the slices of cured chorizo seared in the pan, an egg fried in the luscious red-hued pork fat, and a pile of peppery arugula.

What I loved the most, though, was the sage pesto—a twist on the classic formula with woodsy sage instead of basil and walnuts in place of pine nuts. Sage is a far more pungent herb with less water than basil, so the result is exceedingly flavorful and fragrant, and just a drizzle of the stuff adds a ton of flavor (the recipe makes far more than necessary for the sandwich, so the rest can be stirred into a soup or frozen for later). It also goes a long way in cutting through the richness of the egg yolk.

Though I'll always be fond of the simplicity of a fried egg sandwich dressed with nothing but butter, this is a pretty sweet fancy-ed up rendition.

For the pesto:1 cup loosely packed sage leaves (about 2 ounces)1/4 cup walnute, toasted in a dry skillet (about 2 ounces)1 medium clove garlic2 ounces grated Parmesan cheese2/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, dividedKosher salt to tasteFor the Sandwich:1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil5 slices dry-cured Spanish chorizo1 egg1 ciabatta roll, sliced in half and toasted, if desired1/2 cup baby arugula leaves

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The Opener: How El Barrio Is Doing Now

It's been six months since David Adjey (aka The Opener) helped first-time restaurateurs, Stephen and David, transform a fruit-stand into a Morrocan-Spanish restaurant in Toronto's Kensington Market called El Barrio.

When I caught up with owner Stephen recently, I was sad to hear things weren't going as well as they should.

The biggest obstacle has been getting their liquor licence. Newbie owners Stephen and David had no idea the hoops they'd need to jump through to get a permit to serve alcohol. Because it was previously a fruit-stand, there was nothing in place to help facilitate its makeover into a fine dining establishment.

(chicken tagine)

You can imagine how detrimental that would be -- being a restaurant without alcohol is like popcorn without butter, burger without french fries, cereal without milk... well you get my point. To make matters worse, they are currently in litigation with the landowner. 

And upon a bit of digging, Stephen confessed he's done away with the tagines (and the head chef, who left a week after opening) and put his beloved fast-food items on the menu. (Remember how he and the two Davids butted heads over that?)

(meat tagine)

He defended his actions saying business was slowing down and with the onset of winter, and no liquor licence in sight, he needed to change the menu to bring customers into his place. I'm sure I speak for The Opener crew and David Adjey in wishing El Barrio the best of luck! 

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FNC: How instrumental was Dave to the success of your restaurant?
Stephen: The tagine idea was great and he taught me how to run the dishwasher.

(salmon tagine)

FNC: What lessons did you learn from Dave about running your restaurant?
Stephen: To be honest nothing beats first-hand experience. I learnt a lot just running and being at the restaurant. I'm there seven days a week 12 hours a day.  We are struggling now but I have hope. 

FNC: How was the overall experience working with David Adjey?
Stephen: He is a very creative guy. I loved the tagine idea but I don't think it was right for the area. David and I butted heads but I feel OK about all that. It was a very stressful time. The crew was very nice. 

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If you missed the episode on El Barrio, you can find it in the video centre.

Related:

Posted Wed, Oct 20 2010 1:12 PM by Catherine Jheon Filed under: Restaurants, The Opener, David Adjey

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Dress up dinner party plates with artistic flair

Published Wednesday, Oct. 20, 2010 12:00AM EDTLast updated Wednesday, Oct. 20, 2010 5:18PM EDT0 comments

Your friends have called you an artist in the kitchen, so why not return the sentiment by encouraging them to get a little creative themselves during your next dinner party? Empty paint tubes from your local art-supply store are a fun and novel way to serve individual servings of chocolate mousse or cheesecake. Simply spoon the fillings into the open-bottomed tubes, roll them closed and serve alongside mini “canvases” such as sweet buttery wafers or chocolate biscuits. Add berries, kiwi slices, fresh apricots and other fruits for a splash of colour. If savoury is more your style, start the party by spooning soft flavoured goat cheeses into the tubes and using crackers or flatbreads as backdrops.

Chef Michael Tong is the owner of Toronto’s Sublime Catering.

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Food102

After 6 months of preparation and many sleepless nights we executed Sparkoplis. It took a lot of planning from by beautiful wife, some help from my sisters Rachael and Kaylie and team of professional friends to pull it off. Here is a link to the article in the Denver Post about charity events this summer.

Passed appetizers

Colorado lamb meatball wrapped in angel hair and rosemary

Roasted sweet Colorado corn and apple shooters

Smoked Rainbow trout Bruschetta

Chef’s garden grown vegetable kabobs with sweet pea pesto

Long family pork belly sliders with asian slaw and hoison aioli

Rocky ford melon pipettes with serrano peppers and proisutto

Food Entertainment Stations

Cheese

Baked rolls and sesame crackers from City Bakery

Artisan cheese from Haystack Mountain Dairy

Goat cheese baked in olive oil and rosemary

Pickled watermelon and mint with feta

Creamy buttercup with Colorado peach chutney

Snowdrop with jalapeno caramel

Tamale

Hand rolled mini tamales with red chili or green chili and pork

Featuring Colorado cheeses,farm to table vegetables and unique sauces

Cotijo cheese, Asadero, western slope corn, hatch chili, chef grown tomatoes

yuzu avocado and black olive chipotle

Colorado poured bar

Featuring

Cottonwood cellars, Debuque canyon winery

Great divide and Breckenridge brewery

Stanahan’s whiskey, Colorado vodka and Montanya rum

Creation Stations

Bar

Stanahan’s whiskey caviar and cream

Montanya rum carbonated over vanilla ice cubes

Colorado vodka peach martini with strawberry pop rocks

Ice cream station

Strawberry mint ice cream, hot fudge ice cream and Madagascar vanilla sorbet made with liquid nitrogen. Topping bar includes:

Exploding banana whipped cream, chocolate bubbles, pineapple bubbles, frozen caramel rocks, coconut marshmallows, mint paper and carbonated cherries

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Meat Lite: Soppressata Pasta Fagioli

Pasta fagioli is a traditional Italian peasant dish that was cheap to make because it was usually meatless. Inexpensive ingredients of beans and pasta thicken the soup into a hearty meal. There are countless versions of the recipe and nearly as many ways to pronounce fagioli (beans), depending on the Italian dialect emphasized (fajool, fazul, fazoo, fajeeoli). Plenty of iterations of the recipe call on a bit of pancetta, bacon, or sausage to add depth of flavor and texture. A quarter pound of soppressata (about 1 link) serves that purpose in this Meat Lite variation.

The desired consistency of pasta fagioli is as much of a personal preference. I like mine thick and scoopable, like a cross between a stew and a pasta dish. If you prefer a soupier result, double the stock or broth called for below and consider cooking the pasta separately before adding it to the pot. The uncooked pasta naturally absorbs liquid and releases starches into the soup as it cooks (plus the pasta continues to cook, absorb and soften as it sits in the liquid, so if you are opposed to anything more than al dente, keep the pasta separate from the rest until serving).

If you prefer a vegetarian pasta fagioli, skip the soppressata and start by sweating the onions in 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Use vegetable broth instead of meat stock.

This recipe is a one-pot wonder, making it perfect for a low-maintenance dinner and easy on cleanup. Make a big pot because true to its peasant roots, it's cheap and it freezes nicely, too. Add a few splashes of water when reheating to thin out the soup a little.

About the author: Tara Mataraza Desmond writes about, cooks, and eats food for a living. She blogs about food and life through words and pictures at Crumbs On My Keyboard.

4 ounces soppressata, diced small1 small onion, diced small4 large garlic cloves, roughly chopped1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes1 28-ounce can of crushed or diced tomatoes2 cups chicken stock or vegetable broth 1 teaspoon dried oregano1/2 teaspoon dried basil4 cups cooked white beans8 ounces small tubular pasta like ditalini or elbow macaroni Coarse salt and freshly grated black pepperShaved Parmigiano-Reggiano for serving

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Bay Area Foodie

The first recipe we decided to prepare from Steven Raichlen’s new BBQ cookbook was Filet Mignons with Whisky Mushroom Sauce a dish from Uraguay. It’s beef wrapped in bacon smothered in a creamy wild mushroom sauce. What’s not to like?

Recipe adapted from PLANET BARBECUE!: An Electrifying Journey Around the World’s Barbecue Trail by S. Raichlen (Workman, May 2010).

Serves 4

Ingredients

Sauce:
12 ounces wild mushrooms (porcini, chantrelle)
2 tbsp (1/4 stick) butter
1 shallot, thinly sliced
2 tsp all-purpose flour
1 cup beef stock
1/4 cup whipping cream
2 tbsp scotch whisky
2 tsp dijon mustard
1/2 tsp finely grated lemon zest
kosher salt & ground pepper

Steaks:
4 filet mignons (each 1.5 inches thick & 6-8 ounces)
4 slices country style bacon
8 bay leaves (optional)
butcher string

Preparation

Make the sauce:  Trim/clean mushrooms and thinly slice. Melt butter in pan over medium heat. Add shallot and cook until translucent but not brown, about 2 minutes. Add mushrooms and increase heat to high. Cook until tender stirring often and most of the liquid has evaporated, about 3 minutes. Stir in flour and cook, stirring, until flour evenly coats the mushrooms, about 1 minute. Stir in beef stock and cream bring to boil, stirring well. Reduce heat and simmer until slightly reduced, 3-5 minutes, stirring often. Add whisky, mustard, lemon zest and stir until blended, about 2 minutes. Season with salt & pepper to taste. Sauce can be prepared up to 1 hour ahead and kept warm.

Prepare the steaks: Wrap a slice of bacon around the side of each filet, sandwiching 2 bay leaves, if using, between the bacon and beef on opposite sides. Tie bacon in place with butcher string. Season top and bottom of steaks with salt & pepper.

Set up the grill for direct grilling and preheat to high. To be authentic you’d grill over oak or eucalyptus embers.

When ready to cook, brush and oil grill grate. Arrange filets on the hot grate and grill to taste 4-6 minutes per side for med-rare. Don’t forget to grill the sides to brown the bacon.

Transfer steaks to plate and remove string. Spoon sauce over the top and serve at once.

See my review of the cookbook here

Buy the book here

Filed under: Main Dish, RECIPES | Tagged: recipe, bbq, cookbook, PLANET BARBECUE!: An Electrifying Journey Around the World’s Barbecue Trail, Steven Raichlen, Filet Mignons with Whisky Mushroom Sauce | 1 Comment »

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Meat Lite: Spaghetti with Squash-Sausage-Sage Sauce

[Photograph: Joy Manning]

A lot of people think it's hard to make fresh pasta, but it isn't such a big deal, especially if you aren't attempting to roll out super-thin sheets for ravioli. Most machines come with a spaghetti attachment that makes it easy to have fresh pasta on the fly. If you aren't into it, feel free to use a pound of dry instead. Any shape will do. For an excellent meatless meal, simply swap the chicken stock for veggie, omit the sausage, and sauté the shallots in olive oil.

About the author: Joy Manning is the restaurant critic at Philadelphia Magazine. She blogs at whatiweightoday.com.

For the spaghetti400 grams (about 2 1/2 cups) all purpose flour4 large eggs2 teaspoons olive oilFor the sauce1 small butternut squash, seeds removed2 teaspoons olive oil1/4 teaspoon salt4 to 6 ounces Italian sausage (hot or sweet is up to you), removed from casings and crumbled1/2 cup diced shallot1 teaspoon minced sage leaves1 1/4 cup chicken stock, divided2 ounces grated parmesan or Romano cheese, plus more for passing at the table1/2 to 1 cup pasta cooking liquid

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Meat Lite: Spaghetti with Roasted Cauliflower with Bacon Herbed Breadcrumbs

[Photograph: Tara Mataraza Desmond]

If you swear you hate cauliflower, you're probably wrong. I know, it seems out of line for me to accuse you of not knowing your own palate, but I'd be willing to bet that were a scientific study done on taste for cauliflower, it would reveal that the majority of people who "hate" it would actually like it—if it were prepared differently.

Most people have been subject to boiled cauliflower, which turns into an overcooked mush made doubly unpleasant by the trademark sulphurous stink of the cruciferous family of veggies. Roasting cauliflower deepens the flavors, caramelizes the florets and maintains texture.

In this recipe, roasted cauliflower gets tangled up in spaghetti, spiked with a few bits of bacon, and further jazzed with crunchy, garlicky panko breadcrumbs. The sauce shows the difference a good, homemade stock can have on a dish. Since this is the season for roasting giant pieces of meat, put the remnants to good use (turkey, chicken, duck, ham) in a pot that yields rich, viscous stock. The liquid gold becomes a sturdy backdrop to soups and sauces. Big batches can be frozen in smaller servings for use in the months ahead. Vegetable broth can certainly be used, but will lack the body of liquids fortified with collagen and gelatin from meat and bones.

Cauliflower color and types vary from the most-recognized white to the uniquely spikey green Romanesco. The orange and purple varieties, which I used here, are said to be higher in vitamin content than their white cousins. Preparation methods are consistent regardless of the variety.

I recently made dinner for friends and took the risk of serving roasted cauliflower. All three would have aligned with the anti-cauliflower camp before. All three had seconds and asked for the recipe. Aren't taste turnarounds the best?

1 head cauliflower3 to 4 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced in half 2 to 3 tablespoons olive oilCoarse salt and freshly ground pepper4 slices thick cut bacon1 cup panko breadcrumbs2 tablespoons butter2 cloves garlic, minced2 to 3 sprigs fresh oregano, leaves plucked (stems discarded), finely chopped1/2 cup packed parsley leaves, finely choppedCoarse salt and freshly ground black pepper3 to 4 cups rich stock, preferably homemade (chicken, turkey, duck or ham)1 pound spaghetti2 tablespoons olive oil1 tablespoon butterFreshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

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Dinner Tonight: Sweet Potato and Gruyère Turnovers

I am not a baker. I almost always screw something up, leaving my kitchen disheveled and covered in a sticky coating of flour. But while these may not be the prettiest turnovers to ever emerge from an oven, even I have to admit that they were remarkably easy to construct. What else should expect from Real Simple magazine? Just purchase some premade frozen pie crusts, top with a filling, fold them over, and then pop these in the oven and in 25 minutes or so. That's dinner.

It's so fascinating how it all comes together here. The onion and swiss chard are quickly cooked, before being mixed in a large bowl with the cheese, seasonings, and raw grated sweet potatoes. I was completely in doubt that the sweet potatoes would finish cooking before the turnover was done, but they come out perfectly tender and nicely sweet.

1 medium onion, grated3/4 pound sweet potatoes, peeled and grated1/4 cup olive oil 1 bunch Swiss chard, stems discard and leaves chopped1/4 pound Gruyère, grated1/2 tablespoon fresh thyme leaveskosher salt and black pepper2 refrigerated rolled piecrusts1 egg

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Seriously Italian: Zuppa di Farro

This Recipe First Appeared In: This Week in Recipes

[Photographs: Gina DePalma, unless otherwise noted.]

The onset of chilly, blustery days is the perfect occasion to simmer up a pot of hearty soup, and one of my favorite bone-warmers is zuppa di farro, or farro soup. But before I begin the soup talk, I have to clear something up. Farro is not spelt or barley. It is a relative of wheat, but absolutely not the same thing as a wheatberry.

Farro is uh, farro, and if it is from Italy, where labeling laws are stringent—it will say farro on the bag, clear and simple.

The confusion among these noble grains is partly due to the fact that for many years, chefs outside of Italy had to substitute spelt or barley for farro in favorite recipes, because the real thing was almost impossible to find. But farro is riding that wave of Italian popularity these days, and while you won't find it on supermarket shelves (yet), it is becoming easier to get at Italian specialty shops or online.

The plains of Casteluccio where farro is grown in Umbria. [Flickr: pizzodisevo]

I purchased mine at Di Palo's in Manhattan, which is way more convenient than smuggling it back from Italy in my suitcase.

On a trip to Umbria a few years ago, I encountered farro in various formats at every single restaurant I walked into. The experience that stands out the most was the deceptively basic bowl of farro soup from a tiny trattoria in the mountain town of Norcia, a place made famous by its expert butchers.

It was a cold day. Our fingers were numb from the chilling breeze that had sunk into our bones. We were destined to order a bowl of either the farro or lentil soup, both of which are all over are Umbrian menus. The two crops are grown on the sloping plains of Castelluccio and considered prized Umbrian ingredients.

We warmed our tummies with a glass of Sagrantino and waited for our simple lunch, looking out at the snowy peaks of Monti Sibillini. All bets were off when the steaming bowl was placed in front of us. Fragrant with local black truffles, substantial but not gloppy, it beat out every other farro experience I'd had to date. We slurped in silence, marveling at the layers of flavor: the subtle sweetness of the grain and vegetables, the beefy notes from the broth, the earthiness of the truffle and the swath of oil and cheese running throughout.

One thing that made this particular soup so special was its texture. Some of the farro was pureed silky smooth while the rest of the grains were intact, providing that characteristically tender chewiness. It took me some time to develop my own duplicated rendition, and this is the result. I just love it for fall. If I can find a black truffle to chop up and toss in just before serving, it's even more the treat.

Farro is typically a low-yield crop, which explains why it is more expensive than other grains. Don't let the price tag deter you. It is super versatile because like pasta, farro absorbs and unifies with whatever flavors you add to it. It doubles in volume when cooked, so a small bag can be stretched to serve a crowd. When combined with beans, it forms a complete protein, so let your imagination guide you. Chickpeas and small Italian beans are a good place to start.

Be sure to get farro perlato, which means the tough hull has been removed and the farro will cook to a tender softness. Soaking the farro for a few hours beforehand shortens the cooking time, so a big pot of soup doesn't have to take all day. You can soak the farro, drain and store it a day in advance. It is important to use a high-quality stock made with aromatics like celery, onion, and carrot. Homemade beef stock is my choice, but chicken or a roasted vegetable stock works too. And of course, if you can get your hands on a black truffle, go for it.

About the author: Gina DePalma is the pastry chef at Mario Batali's Babbo restaurant in New York City and the author of Dolce Italiano: Desserts from the Babbo Kitchen. After a stint in Rome, she's back in the States, channeling her inner Italian spirit via recipes and intel on delicious Italian eats.

2 cups farro 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 medium clove of garlic, peeled and smashed 1 medium onion, diced 2 ounces pancetta or guanciale, diced 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme or 2 sprigs fresh thyme 2 or 3 crumbled sage leaves 1 bay leaf 1 cup canned plum tomatoes, crushed and chopped Salt and pepper to taste 6 to 8 cups of good-quality beef stock Torn parlsey leaves, Extra-Virgin Olive Oil and grated Parmigano-Reggiano or Grana Padano for garnish

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Meat Lite: Pumpkin Pancetta Soup

Even though I've had this Pumpkin Pancetta Soup on my Thanksgiving menu for weeks, and I'm only just getting to it now in the midst of the Great Pumpkin Shortage panic of 2009, I remain undaunted thanks to my tablescape. Oh, that's right, folks, I said tablescape.

Sometime back in October, on one of those gleaming fall Sundays when I was wandering aimlessly through a farmers market, getting suckered into buying every seasonal ingredient just because of the way the sun was bouncing off an autumn leaf or something, I picked up a few sugar pie pumpkins. The quaint little ones with the precious name that turn you into a domestic goddess or god just by setting them on the table as holiday décor.

They've been there ever since, looking adorable, until this morning when I drove my chef's knife right through the core to split them apart and send them to the roaster.

It's true that if I were making a sweet pie, I'd duke in out in the grocery store, à la the Cabbage Patch Kid craze of the 1980s, for the last can of purée. Since that pie filling gets all sorts of spices and sugars, I'm less concerned with the integrity of the pumpkin flavor coming through and thrilled to crack open a can of an already-cooked and smooshed version. In the case of this soup, though, it's all about the pumpkin itself, and I find that roasting the squash from scratch brings out the most flavor.

The meat in this Meat Lite recipe comes in the form of crispy pancetta and stock. The pancetta (cured salty bacon, sans the smoked flavor we're used to stateside), which adorns the soup when it's ladled into bowls or cups, is a perfect flavor and texture contrast for the sweet smooth backdrop. I prefer good chicken or turkey stock here, but vegetable stock will work deliciously, too.

Those little sugar pie pumpkins look just as pretty in a bowl on the table as the star of this soup as they did on their tablescape runway last month. And I emerge from the supermarket unscathed.

About the author: Tara Mataraza Desmond writes about, cooks, and eats food for a living. She blogs about food and life through words and pictures at Crumbs On My Keyboard.

- serves 4-8 (appetizer or entrée size servings) -

6 ounces thinly sliced pancettaTwo 2 1/2 to 3 pound sugar pie pumpkins1 large sweet onion, peeled and cut into large chunks4 cloves garlic, peeled8 sage leaves1 cup waterCoarse salt and freshly ground black pepper1 quart stock (chicken, turkey or vegetable)1 tablespoon cider vinegar1 cup whole milkSour cream or crème fraiche, optional

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Dinner Tonight: Spicy Quinoa Salad

[Photograph: Blake Royer]

To be honest, I share my co-columnist Nick's sentiment about quinoa: I'm always suspicious of foods that are supposed to be healthy, or that I'm supposed to be eating. I realize it's not the most mature perspective—the stubbornness of refusing "just because" makes me feel more like a teenager than a serious eater—but with food, I'm ruthless if it doesn't taste good. I don't see the point. When and if healthy overlaps with deliciousness, I'm on board. Just not if it tastes like cardboard.

But as I think most people discover, quinoa is one of the healthy foods that is actually pretty wonderful. It's as healthy as brown rice, but cooks in a fraction of the time, providing protein in addition to carbs. This recipe from the New York Times treats the quinoa much like in a tabbouleh salad, tossing it with lime juice, cilantro, chopped tomato, red onion, and cucumber. A fresh green chile (jalapenos or serranos work well) adds a spicy kick. Fresh, light, yet filling, it's remarkable how great it tastes—and almost as good for lunch the next day as it is for dinner.

1 cup quinoaKosher salt2 cups diced cucumber (about 2 medium)2 cups finely diced tomatoes (about 2 medium)1 to 2 jalapeño or serrano peppers (to taste), seeded if desired and finely chopped1/2 cup chopped cilantro, plus several sprigs for garnish3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil1 small red onion, finely minced (optional)2 tablespoons fresh lime juice1 tablespoon red wine vinegar or sherry vinegar1 avocado, sliced, for garnish

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Dinner Tonight: Taquitos de Papa

Though I know the idea of a potato filling, like this one from Diana Kennedy's Oaxaca al Gusto: An Infinite Gastronomy, might seem too boring and starchy, it comes out absolutely delectable. The combination of waxy potatoes and the complex chili sauce comes together quickly and with little effort. It's so good that you could spoon this onto a store-bought tortilla and be done. I wouldn't complain.

But I'm going to try and convince you to spring for taking the long route. The small amount of lard gives everything a hearty pork kick, making them seem richer and more filling than they have any right to be. Plus, the masa slowly crisps up in the skillet, creating these gorgeous crunchy pockets that give way to a creamy, spicy filling. Like all great Mexican food, it's all about transforming simple ingredients into something truly memorable.

1 1/4 pounds waxy potatoes, rinsed and cut into small cubes, skins left onsalt 2 guajillo chiles, stemmed and seeded4 garlic cloves, skins left on1 1/2 tablespoons lard1 1/4 pounds fresh masa chopped lettucespicy red salsa sliced avocado4 limes, cut into wedges

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Meat Lite: Sweet Potato and Chicken Enchiladas with Chile Sauce

Philadelphia food writers Joy Manning and Tara Mataraza Desmond drop by each week with Meat Lite, which celebrates meat in moderation. Meat Lite was inspired by their book, Almost Meatless. —The Mgmt.

These enchiladas, like lots of traditional Mexican dishes, are an excellent example of how nonmeat ingredients can come together for a very substantial dish. The minimal addition of meat adds texture and flavor but isn't the crux of the recipe. In this case, half a pound of chicken (for four people) poached in chile broth is a supporting player to the sweet-potato-and-onion filling. The spicy, rich homemade chile sauce is the perfect pairing for the sweet filling of savory corn tortillas. Chicken can be excluded altogether or replaced by nonmeat ingredients like black beans, sautéed mushrooms or tofu.

The filling and the chile sauce can be made a day or two ahead for quick assembly of the enchiladas. You may want to double the chile sauce recipe (this recipe yields about 1 cup) and keep it on hand for other dishes, such as burritos or tacos. It will keep refrigerated for a few weeks.

About the author: Tara Mataraza Desmond writes about, cooks, and eats food for a living. She blogs about food and life through words and pictures at Crumbs On My Keyboard.

3 dried guajillo chiles, stems and seeds removed3 dried ancho chiles, stems and seeds removed4 cups water1 medium onion, halved and sliced6 cloves garlic, divided2 tablespoons vegetable oil1 medium sweet potato, peeled and grated with a box grater or the shredder plate of a food processor1 teaspoon cider vinegar1/2 teaspoon salt8 ounces boneless skinless chicken breasts (about 2 small)12 corn tortillas1/2 cup grated cheddar cheese4 green onions, thinly sliced1/2 cup cilantro, choppedSour cream

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Meat Lite: Pinto and Pork Tacos

[Photograph: Joy Manning]

Almost every week when I do my grocery shopping at Whole Foods, I marvel at how little I spent. I guess that's because I'm constantly hearing people complain about the prices at "Whole Paycheck," as it is dubbed. I believe the secret to my savings is recipes like this. I start with a big, inexpensive cut of meat and stretch it out over six or seven meals by combining the meat with legumes, veggies, and whole grains. Here, I tell you not just how to pull off a delicious taco night but how to stash the leftovers. I store the pork and beans separately to keep my options open for encore meals. I might turn the pintos into refried beans or toss the pork with homemade barbecue sauce for a sandwich.

About the author: Joy Manning is the restaurant critic at Philadelphia Magazine. She blogs at Oyster Evangelist.

3 pounds boneless pork butt, cut into 10 or 12 pieces2 teaspoons salt1 teaspoon cumin1/4 teaspoon cayenne1 teaspoon black pepper1 tablespoon canola oil1 cup dried pinto beans3 cups water8 corn tortillas, store bought or homemadeLime wedges (for serving; optional)Chopped red onion (for serving; optional)Cilantro leaves (for serving; optional)Minced jalapeño (for serving; optional)Guacamole (for serving; optional)

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Meat Lite: Mac & Cheese with Chicken and Broccoli

While the pasta is cooking, make the cheese sauce by melting the butter in a saucepan over medium heat. When the butter is melted, add the shallot, salt, and cayenne, and cook, stirring often, for 5 minutes. Add the flour, and cook another minute. Slowly pour in the milk, whisking constantly, until the mixture is smooth. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, and cook for another few minutes, until it is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Off the heat, stir in the cheddar and mascarpone, whisking until smooth.

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Meat Lite: Portobello and Herbed Ricotta Sandwiches

Preheat a large, cast iron skillet over medium-high heat for at least three minutes. Using a brush, lightly film the mushrooms with oil on both sides and season with the remaining 1/4 teaspoon of salt. Arrange a single layer of mushroom slices in the heated pan, leaving plenty of room between slices. Cook, undisturbed, for 5 minutes on the first side, then flip, and cook for an additional 3 minutes on the other side. Do this in two batches if necessary.

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Dinner Tonight: Deviled Ham Salad Sandwiches

[Photograph: Nick Kindelsperger]

You either grew up with ham salad or you find the whole idea repulsive. There's not much I can do. I admit that I was indoctrinated early on, having encountered the salad at a hundred different potlucks and socials. Usually it was found heaped into croissants, and while it could occasionally achieve perfection, mostly it was either completely underwhelming or a horrible pasty pink sludge. But not this stuff.

This recipe from Gourmet keeps things blessedly simple and straightforward. Grainy mustard, Worcestershire sauce, and Tabasco help balance the mayo. Instead of being chopped up and added in, the cornichons and onions are sliced and added on top of the ham salad, so they provide a better crunch. For those that have not had their introduction to this classic sandwich spread, here's your chance.

About the author: Nick Kindelsperger is a freelance writer in Chicago and the co-founder of The Paupered Chef.

1 1/2 cups chopped cooked ham (about 1/2 pound)1/3 cup mayonnaise2 teaspoons grainy mustard1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce1/4 teaspoon Tabasco sauceSliced cornichons to tasteThinly sliced Vidalia onions to taste8 slices bread

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Dinner Tonight: Roasted Chicken and Butternut Squash Soup

Here's the idea: Grab some produce, seasoning, and perhaps some protein, throw it on a sheet tray and roast until golden and tender, then mash it up into a rustic, warming soup. A couple weeks ago I wrote about a beet and potato borscht soup that fit that model; this variation on the butternut squash soup does as well. Roasting adds a depth of flavor that simmering will never provide, and it also makes for a low-fuss dinner that tastes like it took a lot more effort than it did.

In this recipe, like the beet and potato borscht adapted from Everyday Food, chicken thighs are tucked in amongst chopped onion and cubed squash (peeling and preparing the squash is the hardest part of this whole thing), then shredded into the soup. Ground cumin and coriander add a little punch to help cut the sweetness, and a crucial squeeze of lemon adds acidity to keep it all in balance.

About the author: Blake Royer founded The Paupered Chef with Nick Kindelsperger, where he writes about food and occasional travels. After a year in Estonia, he's now living in Chicago.

1 medium butternut squash, peeled and cut into medium dice1 medium yellow onion, cut into medium dice4 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs2 tablespoons olive oilSalt and pepper to taste4 cups low-sodium chicken broth1/4 teaspoon ground cumin1/4 teaspoon ground coriander1-2 tablespoons fresh squeezed lemon juiceFresh cilanto, for garnish

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Dinner Tonight: Roasted New Potato Salad with Poblano Mayo

You're probably not looking for a new potato salad recipe at the moment, but I'll try to convince you otherwise. It helps that I have Rick Bayless on my side.

Here's another recipe from his new cookbook, Fiesta at Rick's, which is proving to be an invaluable resource, especially when planning meals for a large gathering. Potato salad, so often sad and boring, is infused with roasted garlic and covered with a spicy poblano mayonnaise.

What's so fascinating about this recipe is how everything is cooked on one baking sheet. The potatoes are tossed in first, but kept on one side. After ten minutes, the green onions are added, and the poblanos and garlic are tossed on the other side. The potatoes come out slightly crunchy on the outside, still fluffy on the inside. But it's the poblano and roasted garlic mayonnaise that steals the show. It's smoky, slightly spicy, and complex. It makes this one of the most dynamic potato salads I've ever devoured.

Of course, man cannot live on potato salad alone, and it's true that this was designed more as a side dish. But Bayless also recommends adding bacon, diced ham, or hot-smoked salmon to help bulk it out into a "party-ready small dish." Bacon worked especially well for me.

1 1/2 pounds small new potatoes, cut into bite size pieces (if necessary)Vegetable oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper2 large poblano chiles4 garlic cloves, peeled4 green onions, roots and wilted outer leaves removed, chopped into 1/2-inch pieces1 egg yolk 1/4 cup light vinegar (rice vinegar or Spanish cava vinegar)1 cup olive oil 1/4 cup cilantro, chopped4 slices of cooked bacon, crumbled

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an open cupboard

Sometimes the smallest interaction seems a chore. The very thought of making a phone call is exhausting. Pick up the phone, listen to the monotony of the dial tone, think of all the things I need to say to the person on the other side. The words drone on in my head, like the dial tone. The train of imaginary conversation makes me vaguely ill.

I put down the phone and glance at my inbox. So many unanswered missives, so many people awaiting a response. I open one e-mail and read the friendly salutation, the banter, the questions, questions, questions, like so many hooks pulling and poking at my skin. I think of what I should say. “Yes, that sounds great.” “Certainly, that could work.” “Would you be amenable to… ?” It all sounds disjointed, false. One paragraph segways into another like a loping stitch that’s gone awry. The words melt away and I think of what I want to say. “No, fuck off.” “I suppose I could do that if I could drag myself out of doors.” “I’d much rather not have to deal with you or anyone else at the moment. Please go away.” My hands freeze above the keyboard. I can’t type a damn thing.

I’m hungry. I can’t be bothered to prepare anything, so I’ll need to buy something to eat. This means putting on clothes, brushing my hair, walking out the front door and going outside. I dread the myriad of meaningless interactions I am sure to have. The hallway is empty, but the elevator carries a passenger who smiles and says “Good morning!” The rules of etiquette require a response, so I raise my eyes briefly and gingerly pull the corners of my mouth upward. “Morning,” I respond. I hope he doesn’t notice that my hair needs a wash. I hope he doesn’t ask me how my morning’s been, or where I’m off to or any other pointless attempts at small talk. I stop holding my breath when the elevator hits the lobby. He nods and exits happily, a spring in his step and a doltish grin plastered on his face. My relief is short-lived, as now the office manager smiles her hello, and the maintenance man greets me with a genuine smile and an earnest “Good morning!” I half-smile and mumble “hi” and “‘morning” as I try not to flee to the front door.

The cold air hits my face with a sting and a slap, the sun so dazzling bright the world looks white. I squint and try to look down as I walk. The corner store seems miles away, a treacherous journey with people everywhere nodding, smiling, talking.

I reach the shop, pick a sandwich and get in line. Here comes the next charade, a puppet show in which I must perform, time and again.

She’ll say
“Hi! How’re you?”

I’ll say
“Fine, how’re you?”

She’ll respond
“Very well, thanks!” or “Good, thanks!” depending on her knowledge of grammar.

I’ll say
“So, um, just this,” and place my sandwich on the counter.

She’ll say
“Will that be all?” as if she cared what I buy or don’t buy (she doesn’t, I know she’s just following her manager’s script.)

“Yes, thanks,” I’ll say, and with some effort, turn up the corners of my mouth, as if to say “I’m a good customer, I know that’s a stupid question, but I know you have to ask it, and I know I’m not supposed to be annoyed by it, so here’s a smile to show you that I understand and empathize with your plight even though I wonder what sort of hell it must be like to have the same conversation with 300 customers every… single… fucking… day.”

She’ll say
“Great. That’ll be $4.95. Would you like a bag?”

I’ll hand her a credit card, decline the bag.
“No, thanks.” (Meaning: “I know you’re supposed to ask if I want a bag, but you’re really waiting for me to say I don’t, because I’m supposed to care about the environment, and it costs your boss money to give out bags willy-nilly, so if I actually take the bag you’ll look at me disapprovingly ever so subtly. You’ll glance at me, frown, and cast your eyes down furtively. Then the tone of your voice will sour just a little. And you’ll wonder what sort of asshole would want to clutter landfills and strangle seagulls with a plastic bag, and all for a fucking sandwich.”)

She’ll smile and say
“Great! Just sign here.”

I’ll dutifully sign.

She’ll ask
“Would you like your receipt?” (Meaning: “There’s a line and I really need to deal with the other customers. Just deal with the $4.95, will you? It’s not like we’ll accept returns on a sandwich.”)

I’ll say
“No thanks,” and raise the corners of my mouth again.

“Greaaaaat,” she’ll say, elongating the word as though it were one enormous melismatic syllable.

The show ends when she says “Have a nice day!” her pitch rising like a happy ending to a saccharine film.

I’ll dutifully respond “You too!” and match her tone almost exactly (though perhaps just an octave lower).

I’m next in line. Thinking of the upcoming performance, I sigh. Audibly. Glancing at the refrigerator case, a can of coconut juice tempts me.

I’m up. The juice isn’t worth disrupting the scene.

I must play my part and return to my cave.

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Dinner Tonight: Quinoa, Chickpea, and Spinach Salad with Smoked Paprika Dressing

I picked this recipe from Bon Appétit solely for the smoked paprika dressing. I have no doubt that quinoa can be supremely delicious as well as healthy, but it's never excited me before. Perhaps I just haven't had a successful version of the dish that really elevated it beyond something I should eat. But smoked paprkia dressing with sherry vinegar? That sounds delicious.

The hardest part is actually cooking the quinoa. I don't have a whole lot of experience but you have to rinse, cook, drain, and let it all cool. Not exactly the most complex thing in the whole world, but compared to chopping things up and tossing them in a bowl, it does require some work. The result is a satisfying salad that's oddly filling. Thanks goes to the feta—it lends a nice creaminess to each bite.

1 1/2 cups quinoa (about 10 ounces), rinsed and drained4 cups baby spinach leaves2 (16-ounce) cans chickpeas, rinsed and drained1 3/4 cups cucumbers, chopped into 1/3-inch cubes1 pint cherry tomatoes, halved1 cup fresh mint leaves1 1/2 cups crumbled feta (about 7 ounces)1/4 cup Sherry wine vinegar2 1/2 teaspoons smoked paprika1/2 cup olive oil salt and black pepper

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Meat Lite: Pork and Mustard-Cream Cabbage

Philadelphia food writers Joy Manning and Tara Mataraza Desmond drop by each week with Meat Lite, which celebrates meat in moderation. Meat Lite was inspired by their book, Almost Meatless. —The Mgmt.

[Photograph: Joy Manning]

Most people think that if you're serving a chop of any kind, one per person is the rule. It's certainly customary, but in most cases that 8- to 20-ounce monster is a multiple of the portion you should probably be eating. Chops don't usually lend themselves to a meat-lite supper, but with an ample serving of a hearty vegetable side, you won't wonder where the other half of your dinner went. In this case, sharing really is caring.

About the author: Joy Manning is the restaurant critic at Philadelphia Magazine. She blogs at Oyster Evangelist.

1 teaspoon vegetable oil1 slice bacon, chopped1 medium onion, quartered and thinly sliced1 medium apple, cored and shredded on a box grater1/2 medium head green cabbage, shredded1/2 teaspoon salt1/4 cup heavy cream1 tablespoon Dijon mustard1 tablespoon whole grain mustard1 bone-in pork loin chop, seasoned liberally with salt and pepper

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Top 5: Weird Food Laws

I remember sitting in law class one day when my teacher said "today we are going to talk about useless, still valid, American laws that make no sense." Flash forward six years and I still remember some of those laws and many of them involve food. 

Did you know (and I swear I'm not making this up!)... 

 

1. It is illegal to eat oranges in the bath tub in the state of California. 
2. In Boston it is against the law to eat peanuts while in church. 
3. Don't even think of having more than 3 sips of beer, while standing in Texas. 
4. You are breaking the law if you eat a donut while walking backwards in Oregon. 
5. In New Jersey it is illegal to buy cabbage on Sunday. 

Turns out all the laws that were ever created never really stopped being laws, they just stopped being enforced. I think the real question is: how did they ever enforce that one about the oranges in the bathtub??? 

Do you know of anymore strange food laws? Share them here and while you’re at it feel free to come up with explanations!

Related:

Posted Thu, Oct 14 2010 12:40 PM by Joy Dsouza Filed under: Top 5

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Caprèse Salad and Inniskillin's Winemaker's Series 2008 Pinot Gris

Caprèse Salad on the patio of a quaint café called Camille in Le Marais, Paris taken in June 2010 by Shari Goodman
As the story goes, Caprèse Salad was first created in the 1950s in Italy.

So I imagine myself sitting in a little restaurant in Italy, in the region of Campania, perhaps, and before my meal, I order a Caprèse Salad. I know that to prepare this dish, the Chef will pick a top quality tomato in its prime—ripened on the vine. He will then lift some Mozzarella di bufala (buffalo mozzarella) out of the liquid in the special place he stores it. The buffalo mozzarella will be fresh and springy—even a little juicy and creamy and definitely delicious.

To this, the Chef will add the other simple ingredients, always ensuring that the quality of each individual item is top notch. The Extra Virgin Olive Oil (or Balsamic vinegar).The fresh basil from the Chef’s own herb garden. Using dried basil from a spice jar would be irreverent. Even the salt the Chef sprinkles on the salad as a final touch is special sea salt.

And so the simple, yet exquisite ingredients come together to create a salad delicious, yet deceiving in its simplicity. The same salad made with lesser ingredients would be ordinary, even mundane. But something magical happens in the fusion of these fine flavours and textures and the salad becomes a dish fit for royalty.

Paired with a medium bodied white wine, somewhat aromatic and fruity, Caprèse Salad is perfection on a summer plate.

I finish my Caprèse Salad, take a sip of wine, and order dinner.

Actually, that's not far from what I experienced in June -- only the location was Paris, not Italy.

I enjoyed a Caprèse Salad on the patio of a quaint café called Camille in Le Marais, Paris. While people-watching and sipping wine, I marvelled at the melding of these three perfect elements on my plate. Summer is the perfect time to enjoy this salad when you can get two of the key ingredients from your own garden or the local farmer's market.

Buffalo mozzarella is a type of mozzarella cheese that's made from water buffalo's milk, not from cow's milk. In Ottawa, you can get this cheese at La Bottega Nicastro Fine Food Shop or House of Cheese in the Byward Market.

"Everybody's got a water buffalo
Yours is fast but mine is slow
Oh, where do you get them I don't know
But everyone's got a water buffaloooooo" VeggieTales

When I returned home from Paris, a friend made this simple salad at his cottage using a drizzle of some fine Balsamic vinegar to dress it.
This salad pairs well with a fruity, light sipping wine such as Inniskillin's Winemaker's Series 2008 Pinot Gris (LCBO/Vintages #177766 $19.95) that's barrel aged. With its slightly crisp, tropical tones, it's a perfect afternoon-on-the-patio sipping wine.

Recipe

Serves 1

1 fresh tomato
4-5 leaves of Basil
4 oz buffalo mozzarella
Balsamic vinegar

Slice the tomatoes. Slice the mozzarella. Layer the tomatoes, basil and mozzarella. Drizzle with Balsamic vinegar (or make a homemade pesto to drizzle on top). Season with salt and pepper.

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Breaking the rules of wine-food pairings

Published Tuesday, Oct. 19, 2010 4:51PM EDTLast updated Tuesday, Oct. 19, 2010 6:11PM EDT0 comments

Much of what passes for wisdom in food-and-wine pairing has always struck me as fishy. I’m talking such classic matchups as red Burgundy with creamy cheese (ghastly), strawberries with Champagne (a waste of the latter) and Thai food with beer (a surefire way to ruin two good things). To question such entrenched standards is to invite scorn from my fellow diners and traditional sommeliers.

Then I found a breath of fresh sommelier air in François Chartier. Mr. Chartier, a Quebecker, is the author of Taste Buds and Molecules: The Art and Science of Food with Wine, published last year in French and just released in English by McClelland & Stewart. I wrote about him last summer as his book, the culmination of two decades of chemistry research and experimentation, began causing a stir in culinary circles.

He’s a practitioner of so-called molecular gastronomy, the movement pioneered by Spanish chef Ferran Adria. Occasionally found collaborating with Mr. Adria, the 45-year-old ex-sommelier has extended that scientific approach to the world of drink.

Rather than relying on the traditional cue of regional association – Époisses cheese from the Burgundy region with red Burgundy, say – he looks to aromatic compounds found in foods and beverages to come up with what he believes are far more harmonious pairings. And he pays close attention when he tastes.

Like me, he finds the Époisses-Burgundy marriage, among others, “terrible.” Try it yourself if you don’t mind wasting an expensive Volnay or Chambolle-Musigny. Pay attention to the way the stinky, creamy cheese annihilates the delicate pinot noir with its mouldy flavour and pasty texture. Mr. Chartier lived in Burgundy in the 1990s and would recoil when the two were served together. “Each time I would say, ‘The red wine is finished, it’s dead with the cheese,’ ” he told me over the phone from his home in Sainte-Adèle, an hour from Montreal.

Mr. Chartier theorizes that the time-honoured combination was the spawn of historical necessity rather than attention to flavour synergy or science. Most Burgundians, after all, had no access to – and likely had too much regional pride to entertain – more suitable beverages from elsewhere, such as Belgian beer.

After garnering best innovative food book prize at the 2010 Gourmand World Cookbook Awards in Paris earlier this year, Taste Buds and Molecules now is rocking a wider audience of English readers. I asked Mr. Chartier for a few iconoclastic alternatives to standard Western food-and-beverage pairings. I plan to clip this article and paste it on my fridge, where I keep my Époisses stored safely away from my red Burgundy.

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Chef’s recipe: Squab and soba noodle soup

As we roll into autumn, many chefs hunger for an alternative to traditional farm-raised meat, turning to a wide range of game meats offering exciting tastes and textures.

Wild animals are constantly on the move and live directly off the land: It’s this all-natural diet that lends game its characteristic flavour.

I owe my introduction to the world of game to my uncle Clovis. Living in the English countryside, we had the privilege of eating our local hunters’ catch. On his way home from work, Clovis would meet these hunters and buy a pheasant or hare for our family to enjoy. It was then that my lifelong enjoyment of game began. When I moved to Mauritius, my uncles there would stalk the mango groves, hunting the fruit bat, a local delicacy that was served in a stew. Thanks to my relatives, I developed a fondness for game meats of all kinds.

During my time as a cook in England, I vividly remember red grouse season.

As a sous chef under Anton Mosimann, I had the good fortune to taste many great kinds of game meats: August for me meant the opening of the Scottish red grouse season, an occasion marked by great feasts. This type of grouse is impossible to raise on a farm and is highly regarded for its flavour. I was also lucky enough to spend two weeks accompanying and cooking for the Royal Family on an autumn hunt led by Prince Charles. The Royal Hunt’s rewards were amazing, instilling a sense of respect in me for England’s love of the hunt. Cooking game hunted by those who knew and respected it so thoroughly only increased my respect and sensibility for game.

In Canada, I have worked with many of this country’s varied game meats, including caribou, bison, venison and squab. An avid hunter and passionate fisherman, Steve Latner, has brought me beautiful game over the years. This warming fall soup with soba noodles is an ideal use for squab.

David Lee’s Squab and Soba Noodle Soup

Ingredients

¼ cup taro root, diced into 1-inch cubes and simmered for 8 to 10 minutes

¼ litre chicken stock

1 tablespoon light soya

3 ounces soba noodles, cooked as per directions

1 whole squab (about 14 ounces)

Chinese five-spice powder

4 thin strips ginger

1 chilli pepper, thinly sliced

4 Thai basil leaves, torn

1 small sprig coriander

1 wedge of lime

Method

Heat olive oil in a medium-sized, season the squab with a pinch of kosher salt and Chinese five-spice mix and sear on all sides for a maximum of one minute per side. Put the squab in the oven at 325 F for 8 minutes, remove and let rest for 5 minutes.

Place cooked soba noodles, taro-root cubes, sliced chilli, basil leaves and coriander in a bowl. Bring chicken stock to a boil, add soya and pour liquid on top of noodles. Remove the squab breast from the bone, slice diagonally into ½-inch pieces and add to soup. Sprinkle the spice mix on top of the dish and squeeze the lime wedge over top. Serves 2 as appetizer.

David Lee is co-owner of Nota Bene in Toronto.

Wine pairings

Soup, mainly (or entirely) liquid, tends not to make a person thirsty for a beverage. And this one’s got a lot of exuberant seasoning going on, adding more of a challenge as far as wine is concerned. The best strategy here is to look beyond the bird flesh and match the overall aromatic intensity of the dish with a highly aromatic wine – preferably one with bold fruitiness, too, and even some sugar, the better to extinguish the heat. Gewurztraminer would be a good choice, especially from Alsace, as would riesling, including off-dry riesling from Germany or Canada. A small glass of slightly chilled, medium-sweet Amontillado Sherry could work, too.

Beppi Crosariol

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Sesame Salmon

The story of salmon is an interesting one. It is the story of a fish born in fresh water – a fish that gradually migrates out to the ocean, only to come back again to the fresh water when the time has come to reproduce. It is the story of a species determined to survive, sometimes against incredible odds.

Most of the salmon we purchase today comes from Canada, Alaska, the Pacific Northwest, Greenland and Norway. Since I live in Canada, it is a fish that is readily accessible and very popular.

Health Benefits

Salmon is rich in Omega-3, which has many health benefits to its credit, including defensive action against many forms of cancer.Salmon helps to prevent and control high blood pressure, offering protection against heart attacks and strokes.Salmon is an excellent source of protein.Salmon is rich in nutrients but low in calories.What’s not to like about all of that?

Sesame Secret

I’ve always known that salmon is one of those healthy foods that everyone ought to eat regularly. But for me, it is important that food also taste good. Fortunately, I’ve discovered some techniques that make salmon taste so good you’d think it was bad for you. See Saumon au Champagne (Salmon in Champagne Sauce) and Truite de Mer, Sauce Verte (whole poached salmon trout with herbed mayonnaise). And then there is this Sesame Salmon recipe, which has been a family favorite for some time now.

The magic ingredient in this recipe is the sesame seeds, which give the salmon an exotic, nutty and slightly Asian flavour. They are a good source of calcium and protein and are often used in both sweet and savoury dishes from Japan, China, the Middle East, South America, Africa and Asia.

Recipe for Sesame Salmon

Salmon Marinade:
Juice of one lemon
¼ cup sesame oil
¼ cup soy sauce

Combine marinade ingredients and marinate salmon for several hours.

Preheat oven to 350°F. Bake for about half an hour, until the salmon is cooked. Sprinkle with toasted sesame seeds, if desired.

Tasting Notes

The salmon is tender and flaky, the crunchy sesame seeds adding an interesting contrast in both taste and texture. This is a recipe to pull out again and again, and a pleaser for the whole family.

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A Pisco Toast to Chile

With the great relief of the world, the 33 Chilean miners were successfully rescued and are now safe with their families. With this I’d like to suggest a toast to the Chilean miners, with their national drink, the Pisco Sour.

What is Pisco? Pisco is a distilled wine. It typically comes from wine made from the Muscat grape. Pisco comes in different grades, based on percentage of alcohol and amount of flavour. You could view a regular pisco similar to a blanco tequila, although pisco is made from a grape wine base while tequila is from agave.

How do you make a Pisco Sour?

Pisco Sour
3 parts pisco
1 1/2 parts lemon juice
1 – 2 tbsp sugar
Add all ingredients to a mixer with ice. Shake well and serve in a cocktail glass.

This drink has sweet and sour flavours, and is similar to a Caipirinha from Brasil.

If you are not much for the flavour of a Pisco sour, you can toast using Pisco in other ways. Beside purchasing regular Pisco, you can buy flavoured Pisco. Here in British Columbia, we have mango flavoured Pisco from Capel. This drink when chilled is nice on it’s own, but you can also mix it with some sparkling wine, to make a mimosa-like drink. Very refreshing.

So here’s to Chile and the Chilean miners! Salud!

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Somersaults, Salmon and Chardonnay

 Lately, I've decided I need to "try something new" every day.

Last week, I had a water balloon fight with my kids. At one point, I had to be a non-moving target for Jennifer, the youngest, since she was getting frustrated not being able to hit anyone with her water balloons. We had lots of laughs. And I was soaked.  
Another night, after watching the movie Step Up 3 with my kids, we were walking back to my place, and we were dancing in the parking lot. Anna, my middle child, was laughing, embarrassed by my attempts at dancing. But it was fun. I wouldn't have done that...probably before being diagnosed with cancer. It's funny how it changes you. Jennifer and I jumped on a park bench, leaped from it, and we all skipped, danced and enjoyed lots of giggles and laughter.

Yesterday I did a somersault.

When was the last time I did a somersault?
A head over heels tumble
A heels over head routine
Forwards, backwards, sideways, in the air
In my room
On the grass
In a crowd
360
Dizzy, disoriented, confused
Now
Leap
Jump
Tumble through air
Stick the landing
No more fear
Cartwheel next

This is one of the easiest recipes I've made in a long time. And right now, my life demands easy. With three kids, their activities and camps, work, blog, restaurant reviewing, and all the other stresses on my time, cooking dinner at home lately isn't first on my list. But I'd make this recipe again. My sister sent it to me after she'd made it many times for family and friends. It comes from the July 2006 edition of Gourmet, and it's a keeper.
Recipe for Grilled Salmon with Lime Butter Sauce

Recipe for Lime Butter Sauce

Recipe for Grilled Corn with Herbs

This salmon paired well with Inniskillin's Winemaker's Series 2008 Chardonnay (LCBO/Vintages #105379 $16.95) that was medium-bodied, with a touch of oak but not buttery.

When was the last time you did a somersault or danced in a parking lot?

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3-Star Michelin Event + Demo for Ceviche = Memorable

Watching Chef Jeremy Bearman from Rouge Tomate in New York demo this recipe on the terrace overlooking the ocean at The Sanctuary at Kiawah Island was very memorable. Here's a great demo of Chef Bearman making this Ceviche for a Michelin video:

Ceviche (seh-VEE-chay) uses fresh, raw fish that's marinated or "cooked" in citric acid, such as lime or lemon juice, which turns the fish an opaque color but keeps its firm texture and fresh, raw taste.

A key flavoring in this recipe is the kaffir lime leaves that are steeped in sunflower oil, which is the same oil used in the cooking of the Michelin Primacy MXM4 luxury tires.

And here's the recipe for the Ceviche!

Recipe for Ceviche of Local Fish with Tropical Fruits and Kaffir Lime-infused Sunflower Oil

Serves 4 people

8 pcs Shrimp deveined with head and tail removed
8 oz Sliced Sushi Grade Fluke
8 oz Calamari cut into small pieces
½ cup cucumber diced
½ cup red onion sliced
2 jalapenos julienne
Juice of 3 limes
¼ cup diced mango
¼ cup diced Pineapple
¼ cup diced kiwi
¼ cup diced papaya
½ cup sunflower oil
5 leaves kaffir lime
1 tbsp chopped cilantro
1 tbsp chopped mint
Sea Salt
Micro Cilantro to garnish
¼ cup toasted sunflower seeds to garnish

For the Shellfish:

In a hot sauté pan, add about 1 tbsp of sunflower oil. Wait until the oil is just about to start smoking then turn flame off and add the shrimp and calamari. Season with salt and pepper then Cook for just about 10 seconds or until seafood is just barely cooked. Remove the seafood from the pan and cool quickly on a plate in the refrigerator.

For the Ceviche:

Add the chilled seafood along with the fluke to a bowl. Add the cucumber, red onion, jalapeno, cilantro, mint and two tablespoons of the kaffir lime oil. Season well with salt; toss all together then let sit for at least 5 minutes. Plate the ceviche equally amongst four bowls and garnish with the pieces of tropical fruits, micro cilantro and toasted sunflower seeds.

For the Sunflower Oil:

Place a ½ cup of sunflower oil in a very small pot or pan. Bring the oil to a temperature of 180 degrees farenheight and toss in the kaffir lime leaves. Let the leaves steep in the oil until there is a strong flavor imparted. Strain out the leaves and chill the oil.

This recipe was specially created by Chef Jeremy Bearman for the Michelin Primacy MXM4 tire launch event.

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Cream Puffs and Kings of Pastry

As those of you who have been following my Twitter know, I have recently undergone surgery for thyroid cancer. It appears to have been very successful and I returned to work recently.

However, as I continue to heal I am taking a lighter approach on my blog for a few weeks, featuring some old family favorites…the kind of recipes you turn to when you want something simple, yet still delicious and family pleasing.

First up is Cream Puffs made with the simplest of ingredients. Once the technique is mastered, cream puffs are quick and easy to make and sure to please.

What is the nutritional value of a cream puff?Zero, unless you are starving and need the fat and sugar to keep you alive.

Its History is a Mystery
The truth is, nobody knows for sure who can be credited with creating the lovely cream puff. What we do know is that as early as the 13th century in both southern Germany and France, chefs were creating lovely puff pastries that they baked until the pastry puffed, after which they sliced the pastries open, and filled them with various cheese mixtures.

Chefs at this time had begun experimenting with dough mixtures that included four simple ingredients: flour, water, fat, and egg, the same ingredients used today for cream puffs or choux pastry. They had become fascinated with the delightful results that occur during baking: as the pastry puffs, it creates an airy hole in the middle which just invites a delectable filling.

Cream buns, called pate feuillettée in France, and butter pasted puffs in England, were becoming popular in the early 1500s, using the same famous four ingredients. The filled treats were popular among the wealthy people of that time.

By the mid 19th century in both France and England, the cream puff had become known as the profiterole. Often created in elaborate shapes by skilled pastry chefs, elegant Victorian diners could find cream puffs shaped like swans or pyramids of tiny, fragile chocolate or vanilla filled puffs to nibble on with the dessert wine, tea or coffee. In the United States, the first recorded mention of the cream puff on a restaurant menu dates to 1851 at the Revere House Restaurant in Boston.

Cream puffs are leavened by the eggs included in the batter.

Recipe

Serves 6

2/3 cup sifted all-purpose flour1 egg, slightly beaten for glazing

Unsalted butter for baking sheets
You can find the recipe for Profiteroles au Chocolat (Profiteroles with Vanilla Ice Cream and Hot Chocolate Sauce) in the book Le Cordon Bleu at Home.
Tasting Notes
To bite into a freshly baked cream puff filled with real whipped cream is to experience sheer delight. The humble four ingredients have now become a light, puffy holder for the delectable filling, creating the perfect, subtle combination of taste and texture. As the cream dribbles down your chin, you’ll find yourself wanting another – and another. . .

"A cream puff is something very basic.
You have to keep it basic.
It's beautiful without doing too much fou fou stuff around it.
Let cream puffs be what they're supposed to be."
—Chef Jacquy Pfeiffer, contender for MOF (Meilleurs Ouvriers de France, France's highest honor in the art of patisserie)
designation as profiled in the documentary, "Kings of Pastry"
to be released September 2010

Links
Kings of Pastry documentary
Kings of Pastry article
Profiteroles au Chocolat (Profiteroles with Vanilla Ice Cream and Hot Chocolate Sauce)
Peppermint Cream Puff Ring...Swan

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